By Sarah Fendrich
Eyeliner intimidates almost every client I've ever worked with. They'll apply foundation, blush, even eyeshadow without batting an eye — and then freeze when it's time for liner. Wobbly lines, smudges, a line that somehow ends up nowhere near the lash line. It happens to everyone at first.
Here's the thing: most eyeliner problems aren't about a steady hand. They're about using the wrong product, starting in the wrong place, or moving too fast. Fix those three things and the rest falls into place. This is the same breakdown I walk through in every private lesson.
The two-liner system — and why it matters
The biggest mistake I see is people using one eyeliner for everything. The top and bottom lids are completely different — they need different formulas.
Gel liner on the top lid. My Gel Eye Pencil has a firm, precise tip that glides along the upper lash line without dragging or skipping. It's long-lasting and smudge-proof once it sets — exactly what you want on the top lid where liner needs to hold all day.
Kohl liner on the bottom lid. The lower lash line is delicate. A gel formula is too stiff here — it drags and can feel uncomfortable. My Kohl Liner Eye Pencil has a soft, creamy formula that glides on the lower lid without pulling. It's also hypoallergenic, which matters because the lower lid is so close to the eye itself.
My personal recommendation: Black Caviar gel on top, Dark Brown kohl on the bottom. Black on top creates definition and contrast. Dark brown on the bottom is softer than black — it frames the eye without making it look heavy. This combination works for almost every eye color and skin tone.
Where to start (not the inner corner)
This is the single change that makes the biggest difference for beginners: start in the middle of the lash line, not the inner corner.
Most people start at the inner corner and try to draw one long line all the way across. The problem is that the inner corner is the hardest part — it's tight, the skin moves, and any wobble there ruins the whole look. Starting in the middle lets you get comfortable with the product and your pressure before you ever touch the tricky parts.
Here's the sequence:
- Start at the center of the upper lash line
- Work short strokes outward toward the outer corner
- Then go back to the center and work short strokes inward toward the inner corner
- Connect everything
Short strokes, not one long sweep.
Apply it close, stop at 3/4
Two placement rules I give every client:
As close to the lash line as possible. The goal is to fill in the space between your lashes, not to draw a line floating above them. When liner is right at the root of the lashes, it looks like the lashes themselves are thicker and more defined. When it's slightly above, there's a gap that looks unfinished.
Stop at 3/4 across — not all the way to the inner corner. Liner does not need to go all the way to the inner corner. Taking it into the very inner corner closes the eye off and can actually make eyes look smaller. Stop about 3/4 of the way across and let the inner corner stay clean. The effect is more open and awake.
Go slow. This is not a step to rush. Short, deliberate strokes get you there — long, fast ones rarely do.
What to do when it's not perfect
Gel liner can be corrected. If your line is uneven or slightly too thick in one spot, pick up a smudger brush and move it back and forth right along the line. The gel formula responds to the brush — you can soften edges, even out the width, or blend a harsh line into something more smudged and intentional. That's why I recommend it for beginners every time.
Keep an Eye Pencil Sharpener close by — it works for both the Gel Eye Pencil and the Kohl Liner. A precise tip gives you control. A dull tip gives you a thick, uncontrolled line — and makes everything harder.
Ready for a sharper line? Try the Ultra Eye Liner Pen
Once you're comfortable with the gel pencil technique, the Ultra Eye Liner Pen is the natural next step. The rotated felt tip delivers a highly pigmented, clean line with no sharpening needed — ever. It's ideal for a more defined, dramatic look or when you want extra precision on the upper lid.
A few tips for felt-tip liner: rest your elbow on the counter before you start — a steady arm makes a huge difference. Start with a thin line right at the lash line and build thickness from there. And unlike the gel pencil, the formula sets quickly and can't be corrected once it's down. That's exactly why I suggest nailing the gel first — same technique, more room to adjust while you're learning.
Where eyeliner fits in your routine
Eyeliner goes after eye shadow, before mascara.
If you apply liner first and then blend shadow over it, you'll smear it. If you apply liner after mascara, the brush catches your lashes and drags. After shadow, before mascara is the order that keeps everything clean.
Start with just the top lid
If you're new to liner, give yourself permission to skip the bottom lash line entirely at first. Top lid only is a complete, polished look on its own — you don't need both to look put together.
Practice the top until it feels natural. Then, when you're ready, add the kohl on the bottom. Take it one step at a time.
The eyeliner routine at a glance
- Apply eye shadow first (see the Eye Shadow Tutorial if you need a starting point)
- Pick up the Gel Eye Pencil — tip sharpened
- Start in the middle of the upper lash line
- Short strokes outward to the outer corner, then back inward
- Stay as close to the lash line as possible
- Stop at 3/4 across — leave the inner corner clean
- Correct with a smudger brush if needed
- Add Kohl Liner on the bottom lash line (optional)
- Apply mascara last
Want to practice with me?
If you'd like to try these techniques on your own face with real-time feedback, I offer three ways to learn: private in-person lessons in Danville, CA, one-on-one online lessons via Zoom, and group lessons if you'd like to learn alongside friends. Whichever format you choose, we'll cover your eye shape, what liner style works best for you, and the whole routine from start to finish.
Shop the products in this post
Sarah’s picks for the full two-liner system — everything you need to follow this tutorial.
Sarah’s starter recommendation
Gel Eye Pencil + Kohl Liner + Sharpener — the full two-liner system ($76)
